Clone Planting Instructions
All you need to plant cannabis clones are healthy clones, good soil, solo-cups (or 1 gallon pots), and water. The plastic solo-cup is the most popular option to plant / transplant your clone into. It only takes about 7 – 10 days for a healthy clone to root well enough to be ready to transplant again to the next size pot (usually 2 or 3 gallon pot). You shouldn’t plant a clone directly into a 5 gallon pot because it will get stunted and not grow well at all. A wise woman once said, “putting a clone into a 5 gallon pot is like putting a small child in the deep end of the pool.” The same goes for planting clones directly into the ground outside.
Prepare to learn simple and easy clone planting instructions.
How To Transplant Cannabis Clones:
Fill up your pot (solo-cup or 1 gallon pot) up to the top with new soil from a fresh bag of quality potting soil.
Add in ph-balanced (6.0 – 6.8) water and stir the water with your finger or any small utensil. Make sure you vigorously mix and stir the water with the soil. Do not allow for any dry pockets of soil in the pot or solo-cup. Keep stirring until the soil is completely saturated and soupy and then simply let it drain.
Now use your pointer finger and middle finger knuckles to make a hole in the middle of the topsoil about as deep as the clone’s cube.
Next gently place the clone in the space you’ve just made for it and sprinkle some more fresh new soil on top. Do not pat the soil down.
Use a spray mist bottle and lightly mist the soil you just sprinkled on top.
Now put the clone under 24 hours of light or 18 hours of light with 6 hours of darkness (on a consistent schedule using a light timer.) You can also add a plant identifier like a popsicle stick or plastic plant label to write the date down along with the name of the strain.
As mentioned before, you have about 7 – 10 days until it will be ready to transplant again. Don’t expect to see the leaves and branches grow too much right away, as the plant’s root system first needs to get established. After you plant your clone, you might not water it again for a few days or a week. That first watering at planting time is typically enough for 5 – 7 days, but it depends on how hot the environment is and how quickly the soil dries out.
As a rule, always water the soil when it is almost dry. Don’t wait until it is completely dry. On the “dry, moist, wet” spectrum, “almost dry” is just between the moist and dry lines. Pay attention to the cube itself, not just the soil. Cube actually dry out faster than soil does, and we do not want them getting dried out during this critical transplant time. You can stick a moisture meter reader into the cube or soil to get an accurate “dry, moist, or wet” reading.
If you do not have a moisture meter reader, then you can use other hands-on techniques to determine when to water. For starters, remember to feel how heavy the solo-cup felt when you watered the soil completely at transplant time. Over time, the weight of the cup will lessen considerably as it dries out. If it feels more than 1/2 lighter than it did when wet, it is about ready for a second light watering. You would use about a cup or two of water at this point. If all the water drains quickly out of the bottom of the cup, you will need to water it again until it retains. When water drains quickly from the bottom of a pot, it is an indication the soil is very dry. This isn’t a good thing. The hope is that when you water the solo-cup, the first cup you give it will be retained very well in the soil and not come flowing out the bottom.
Another thing you can do is cut a snip into the the side of cup and peel the snipped cup layer down to visually inspect and touch the exposed soil. If the soil is very light colored, dry looking, brittle to the touch, and crumbling easily, then you should water it. There’s no way the cup will feel heavy if the soil is dry looking, brittle, crumbling easily, so it’s pretty easy to make the call to water it or not. Lastly, do not just stick your finger in the topsoil the first inch or two (this is a common cannabis growing myth) to determine when to water.
With a solo-cup, you can easily use a pair of scissors and cut down the side of it to see the root growth, or lack thereof. If you use a plastic or felt 1 gallon pot, you can try to do the same using scissors or clippers/loppers, whichever work best for you. You’re looking for white roots popping out all over the sides of the soil. When you see them, you’ll be ready to transplant to the next pot size.
What if the roots aren’t developing?
If you do not get vigorous root growth by 14 days (two weeks), then I recommend you start over with new clones. It is possible the clones were not healthy, or it could be that you overwatered and underwatered. Environmental conditions can be a reason. For example, if your grow tent was consistently 85+ degrees Fahrenheit with no air flow, or if the humidity was always extremely low, like 20 – 30%, then a clone’s growth could get stunted. Also, if your lights are too strong and hot, that can also cause too much stress on young plants and cause a clone’s growth to get stunted. Overwatering and heat or humidity stress can cause symptoms such as leaves “tacoing” and folding like a taco, leaves wilting, and the serrated edges of the leaves turning up. Heat and light stress from strong lights can also cause leaves and leaf edges to get scorched, burned, or crispy, and turn various shades of white, yellow, and brown.
TIP: Get the premium brand solo-cups, not the cheap ones. The bottoms of the premium solo cups are much easier to poke holes into.
TIP: Remember to check the moisture of the cube, not just the soil!
Marc Eden’s DIY Cannabis Cultivation Book For Beginners
Published by Green Carpet Growing, Inc.
San Diego, CA 92103
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